November 28, 2022


World Travel Service

Koloman Brightens Up the Former Breslin Restaurant at Ace Lodge Nomad

Koloman Brightens Up the Former Breslin Restaurant at Ace Lodge Nomad

Search for French fare with Austrian accents at Koloman, opening on Thursday, September 15 what had been the Breslin, the moody tavern from April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman in Nomad’s Ace Lodge. The eating room is barely recognizable in comparison with its former iteration partially due to a restoration that infuses class and lightweight (the primary NYC undertaking from London-based Russell Sage Studio) into what had been a comfortable, dim-lit area.

The restaurant at 16 W. twenty ninth Road, close to Sixth Avenue, is an homage to artist Koloman Moser, who was influential within the Eighteen Nineties Viennese Secessionist motion and marked a brand new period of recent artwork in Austria. His legacy is strengthened within the design emphasis — the strains of the bar together with the brass and mica clock, the materials, and wallpaper — that touches on Artwork Nouveau, Artwork Deco, and the Arts and Crafts motion. It’s a partnership with EHV Worldwide, the group behind the ritzy Indian Accent within the Thompson Central Park with areas world wide.

A bar that’s backlit and designed as a clock.

The bar at Koloman incorporates a back-lit clock.

Previously at Augustine and, earlier than that, a chef and proprietor of Bâtard, Gordon Ramsay eating places in London and New York, and Steireck in Vienna — co-owner and chef Markus Glocker emphasizes pared-down fantastic eating on the menu. Diners will discover celery root tartare, candy corn soup with cured scallops, and salmon en croûte. Seared fluke is predicated on a conventional trout amandine, with mandelbrot atop the fish that’s seared till golden brown, then completed in brown butter and dressed with marcona almonds. The restaurant additionally embraces the comeback of souffles in a triple creme model made with Nice Ridge cheddar. And sure, there might be schnitzel — served with ligonberries, sea buckthorn, and a potato and cucumber salad.

A chef behind the counter of an open kitchen.

The restaurant maintains the open kitchen at Koloman.

A collection of small plates at Koloman.

Subsequent to the Tremendous de la Baie oysters, boeuf is served 3 ways on the stand: First, hand-cut tenderloin with crispy quinoa and horseradish cream. Lucullus de Valenciennes follows, a tongue and foie gras paté. Then oxtail is fried in a hazelnut brioche crust with chive dip.

A collection of dishes arranged on a black background.

A set of dishes at Koloman, the Markus Glocker restaurant now open in Nomad. L to R: grilled trumpet mushrooms, salmon en croute, oysters with white asparagus vinegar, and seared fluke amandine.

Whereas the primary stage options cubicles accented with interval textiles together with a pair of chef’s tables that face the open kitchen, the upstairs presents a chicken’s-eye cocktail sales space that overlooks the eating room, with a handful of eating tables and a diminutive second bar. The upstairs bar is stocked with a group of Austrian schnapps assembled by beverage director Katja Scharnagl; earlier than Koloman, Scharnagl labored with Aldo Sohm at Le Bernardin and the close by Aldo Sohm wine bar. Hailing from Austria herself, she has invested in an old-world eclectic wine checklist with an emphasis on Champagnes.

A collection of Viennese desserts.

An assortment of desserts from Emiko Chisolm at Koloman.

After dinner, contemplate desserts from Emiko Chisholm, previously at Balthazar underneath Mark Tasker, adopted by Augustine. As hours increase past dinner, count on an all-day cafe that highlights a few of her creations, comparable to cherries and Champagne with Balsamic oats; sacher torte; peach and raspberry charlotte (all $15), in addition to an Austrian model of crepes, palatschinken with fromage blanc, berries, and lemon thyme.

Koloman might be open Tuesday by way of Sunday from 5 to 11 p.m. till November, after which the restaurant will increase hours.

Chef and co-owner Marcus Glocker and beverage director Katja Scharnagl at Kolomon.

Chef and co-owner Markus Glocker and beverage director Katja Scharnagl at Koloman.